Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil...errr....Roses.

Disclaimer:  The below does not actually refer to goings on at midnight, more like 8 to 11.

 If you ever find yourself staying in the Palermo section of Buenos Aires (or any part of BA for that matter) consider yourself lucky.  But if you´re a runner looking to get out and stretch your legs consider yourself extra lucky.
After a long day of taking in the sights of Microcentro, windowshopping in upscale Recoleta, or just chilling out at the cafés along Puerto Madero put on your running shoes and head for the Rosedal (Rose Garden) in Palermo.  With a beautiful pond, kioscos where you can buy water and other drinks, and lots of open space to sit, stretch, do sit-ups, or whatever, the Rosedal is the place to be for runners on weeknights.  To get there take El Subte (the subway) line D to Plaza Italia.  Exit the subway and head northeast on Avenida Sarmiento.  The Jardín Zoológico (the zoo) will be on you´re right (you´ll smell it).  When you reach Avenida del Libertador head northwest across the massive intersection.  Once you´ve crossed the intersection the park will be on your right.  As stop signs, headlights, and picking up after your dog are apparently optional in BA, getting to the park can be a bit dicey (comparable to running the gauntlet on a Japanese gameshow) so stay alert and keep your eyes open.  Once you get there you´ll realize the trip was worth your while.

Upon entering the park you´re likely to hear bagpipes - that´s your cue to jump in and start running (counter clockwise).  While running the loop you´ll pass plush grass fields, the serene pond in the middle, and the beautiful footbridge (pictured) that leads to the actual rose garden.  But the real scenery is the hundreds of porteños out for their nightly exercise.  Keeping your eyes open here won´t be a problem - your head is likely to be on a proverbial swivel!  While the loop is only about a mile long it´s easy to do 7 or 8 laps while checking out the gorgeous porteños (girls and guys alike - we here at The Run Around are equal opportunity chauvinists).  You´ll also see numerous running teams out training for various races, marathons, and triathlons (be careful - these groups run against traffic and don´t stop for gringos that stray into their path).

After your workout leave the park the way you came in (this time on the opposite side of Avenida Sarmiento) and stop to stretch while watching the skateboarders "shred" the half pipe at the small skate park.  Once cooled down and stretched take the money you brought to buy a post-run water and spend it on beer (let´s maximize the benefit of our exchange rate, people).  Head to Plaza Serrano (see pic right) in all your sweatiness to have a drink at one of the many outdoor bars packed with people (to get there, pass by the Plaza Italia subway stop and continue southwest on Avenida Jorge Luis Borges for about 10 blocks and you´ll come across the plaza).  After a few beers you might actually stop sweating.  Once loose and ready for dinner head back to your hotel/hostel to shower (or don´t) and make your way to Caracas Bar on the corner of Jorge Luis Borges and Guatemala.  The "Ensalada Caracas" is a great post run meal consisting of mixed greens, sundried tomatoes, higos (a sweet South American fruit), grated cheese, sliced almonds (none for me, soy alérgico), and loads of jamón crudo (similar to prosciutto).  It´s how the say in Argentina - freakin´ delicious.  The salad with a beer and bottle of water will run you about 40 pesos (10 bucks).

Now that you´re fed and lubricated go back to Plaza Serrano to drink outdoors until the wee hours, or to the Las Canitas area, or make your way downtown with your Brazilian hostel mates to club Bahrein and drink overpriced cans of beer while dancing to crappy music with a bunch of sweaty, wasted, 19 year old Aussies and Brits on their "gap year" (don´t do this). 

If you do end up going to club Bahrein until 7 in the morning it´s doubtful that the hostel breakfast (i.e. staled untoasted bread, and a coffee-esque liquid) is gonna cut it in the morning.  For something more substantial try Tonno on the corner of Thames and Charcas and get the "Desayuno Americano" - scrambled eggs, bacon, toast with cheese spread, orange juice, and a cortado (coffee with milk).  Add a water and the damage will be 22 pesos.  Go back to bed...

2 comments:

  1. You're good at this! Loved the "higos (a sweet South American fruit", when it's actually your basic fig!!!!!!

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  2. It was explained to me as "una fruta dulce" by the waitress. Tell your people to learn the English names of their produce.

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